Is the any possibility you have more picture of your Satria R3 ?
I am planning to go back to KL soon and might get a R3 as my daily drive. If there is more picture of the car under the hood, interior, exterior, suspension components and underneath the car please send it to me at [email protected]
Regards,
William
For the one is commented about have Proton engineering department has figure about the holes drilled and slotted on the brake rotor and did they taper the holes.
This question you better post it to DBA Australia because the rotor is taken from them. The one used in R3 are DBA Gold Cross drilled and slotted.
The question I think you should ask is “Did Proton R3 department re-map the ABS to make use of the uprated brake parts ?” As if the rear brake can dissapate the heats better should they have put 50:50 to 70:30 (Rear:Front brake balance) brake pressure for light to moderate braking pressure during trail braking to reduce dive. Not sure yet until I drive one. So Vernon is there any difference between the normal GTi and R3 brake balance ?
To check out and compare how the brake behave different differently probably the best car I would suggest that you might source one easily is a BMW E46 325 and above. It only put more pressure to the front when you really need it ie: need more weight to be shifted to the front during heavy braking to increase front tyre patch pressure.
Check it out.
Regards,
William
Thanks for the comment. FYI, the SR3 does not come with ABS as stock. And yes, the brake biasing has been tuned. In fact, the brakes are the least to worry about on the SR3, coz its fantastic. The Mintex 1144s work extremely well with the DBAs. 100-0kmh in 38metres. That’s pretty darn good. The brakes have been tried and tested at the track. I can attest that it holds well, no signs of fade even under hard braking for many laps.
For FF drives, brake balance is usually 70:30. Not wise to be 50:50 unless you want it to be really tail happy.
If there is something they should change as stock, is the clutch.
]]>so coincidence..
check on r3, found ur site,
surfing zth saw crash’s signature with v.blog and now on ur site…again to check if u r crash..
and yes u r…
ahahah….
i am in there too…
see… i know everyone who loves car will be in zth.. ahahahah…
]]>I do not know of any SR3s on track a month back, as there is no official/unofficial gathering at Sepang. We will be having a closed session with Lotus club this weekend.
The 2m 55s was done none other than Tengku Djan. A GTi would do around 3m 03s.
Look at it this way, Djan is a trained race driver, and we the normal riceboys cannot even dream of making those times. The SR3 has more than proven its worth, but ultimately it depends who’s at the wheel. :)
Besides, track days aren’t for ‘racing’ per se. More a track experience. :)
I’ll try an get some times if I can this weekend. Not that I am a good driver. Hehehe. Would be happy to just dip under 3mins.
]]>I appreciate the URL you gave. Its always great to be able to pull in more information from any source/s even though I may agree or disagree.
Actually after I read Motorman’s advice, I did a few key searches on his advice and there are people who are disagreeing with motorman. Most are questioning the figures ie pressure that will help seal the rings in and that information is devoid at motorman’s site.
So I would be a bit careful cause maybe we don’t really need to ram the engine when new plus we have to also make sure the gearbox sets in beautifully and also the temperature of the engine which can effect the internals too. So its not just as simple as turn key in car and full throttle all the way.
Based on that, I will not do it to any car I have until everyone (ie majority) start advising the same as Motorman. call me a chicken, a coward.. but after spending my life saving on a car (expensive in malaysia), I am going to make sure anything I do to it, must be tried and proven. No hearsay bullcrap for me.
Man you look after your car better than me. I service my car once every 10,000km using mobil 1. You do it every 5-6000km. Good stuff!. I just don’t have the time to spend taking my car for frequent servicing.
In UK I used to put only about 12,000 miles on my car and using the car service indicator, that used to be ONCE a year service for me. More time on the road and off. I hate when the car has frequent visits to the service place. It reflects badly on car ownership and the quality. What about you? Do you mind wasting your precious hours at PESC just for the simplest of jobs.
What irritates me is the pace they work at. Even a sloth will be jealous that there is another animal out there thats even slower than itself. This one time, the guys were working on cars ever so slowly and another guy brings in goreng pisang. One by one they took their share, walked over to the cars they were working on and ate, then continued to work on the cars. Now we know why when we go to pick the car up at 5:30pm, the seats are dirty, the steering wheel is oily, etc. Best part is, the service manager was one of the participants in sharing in this local delight in front of his subordinates.
Got to run. We are waiting anxiously with you for your R3. So much of anticipation.
regards
ERIC
Thanks for the URL. Me along with some of my motor-friends will be looking into this.
I read through it but I must say, I am not too sure this is really applicable. For a start our Protons Satria are 12 years old design cars… from engine to body work. The web site says this break in procedure came about due to the new technologies that car manufacturers are using…Quote “The biggest factor is that engine manufacturers now use a much finer honing pattern in the cylinders than they once did. This in turn changes the break-in requirements, because as you’re about to learn, the window of opportunity for achieving an exceptional ring seal is much smaller with
newer engines than it was with the older “rough honed” engines.”
And; Quote “Due to the vastly improved metal casting and machining technologies which are now used, tight parts in new engines are not normal. A manufacturing mistake causing a tight clearance is an extremely rare occurrence these days. But, if there is something wrong with the engine clearances from the factory, no amount of gentle running will fix the problem.”
He could be right if say you were buying a brand new Merc, NSX, Porsche, etc… car built in 2004 with new manufacturing technology. But what are we buying? Engine 4G93 from the early 90’s. Somehow I don’t think the hard-run it is advisable. Better to stick to the OLD method of Gentle run-in but that’s my $0.02 worth. Its your ‘babe’ and you are free to try what ever you want.
Point to consider. I am sure hardly many people will use the Gentle break in methodology on their long awaited GTi. Most will use the hard-run in courtesy of Proton Service Center technicians as Motorman put it, “adrenaline crazed set – up mechanic”. Yet we have numerous emails in forums who complain their car power is down, engine rough, not so good… etc. If the engine was hard run in, then by logic, we all should be driving around in super set engines.
I have run-in my cars from the 80’s according to the Gentle approach and when done, those cars seemed to have the best engine response when old especially in the mid to high-end. The ones that I never got a chance to do, they were usually of average or below average in performance.
Anyway just for the record, here is my usual break-in.
1km to 1000km: Take it easy. No Full Open throttle on 1st and 2nd gear. Max revs, 2/3 of Redline rpm. Use varying speeds and gears so highway driving is out.
1000km: Change engine oil and filter. Get rids of all metal bits. I do this at this point because I once read that car manufacturers used to put in some additives into the oil when new. So that’s why I used the original oil for 1000km. At change, Mobil 1 goes in and remains the choice of oil from that day forwards.
1001km to 3000km: generally increase the throttle opening for all gears but never rev above 2/3rpm of the red line. I.e. red line is 6000, I keep to about 4000 (roughly). Use the time to get to know my car well.
3000km: Bin oil and filter. Fresh blood of Mobil 1.
3001km to 5000km: The fun begins…. Like when you are with a virgin the first time. Everything comes in stages and the waiting is worth all the tries, for the anticipation only heightens your excitement to levels never imaginable. ?
Now I will increase the rpm in 500 bands. So it’s up to 4500rpm for a week. Then up to 5000rpm, then 5500rpm.. and so on. Next thing you know the car will be doing the red line in all gears.
5000km: Oil change and filter. Mobil 1 goes in. Gearbox oil is changed. Next Oil service will be at 10,000 km. I service my cars every 10,000km… sorry let me rephrase that. I service my protons every 10,000km by using synthetic oils. Other cars these days that you buy the service period is extended due to better building technology. …(if I am not mistaken, the Volvo S40 T4 calls for an oil service every 12,000 MILES or roughly equal to 19,000km and we are taking of using normal engine oils). Its all about easy ownership and spending less time and money at a service centre.
So there, that’s what I tend to use. I am sure its hog-wash to lots of people but like I said, its my view, my method and I like it. I am sure lots of people will disagree with it but hey, it worked for me and I like it. Each man to his own. ?
Anyone wants to knock it, .. go ahead but its not going to change my mindset at this time and a few pictures of pistons are not going to alter it at all either. Motorbikes revs are very high as compared to our cars. Yes I am sceptical about Motorman’s procedure. For me, why change what ain’t broken..!
Cheers Vernon.
Regards
ERIC