Satria R3 For Sale 0

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I love this car but it’s really time to move on. Looking for an owner who appreciates a limited edition vehicle (with 150 units only in Malaysia, it IS definitely a rarity!), loves driving and enjoys motorsports as well as wants to be part of a very active R3 community – The R3gister. The lovely, sexy Brigette Liberty Yu, is not part of the package. All stickers have since been removed and the car given a brand new Incognito Black paintjob. Details below:

LEV#007 Satria R3 for sale
December 2004
85,000kms mileage
Shell Helix Ultra 10W-50 Full-syn
Road tax till Feb 2009
Stage 1 spec – 145bhp

New timing belt, bearings
New engine mountings
New R3 suspension set
New paint + R3 livery
R3 license plate

Mods
R3 Gear knob
R3 Steering spacer
R3 Stage 3 4-1 performance header
Pipercross performance drop-in filter + cold air intake
R3 Stage 2 suspension bushes
Powerzone LSD kit

Protected by tracking + recovery system – Captor (worth RM1,950) and Radiostar (worth RM700)

RM58K only negotiable. Private sale. View to appreciate.

Drop me a line at vernon.chan[a]gmail.com for serious enquiries.

Rubber Burning With Lotus Club / Track Day Tips 0

A total of 10 Satria R3s will be joining 20 Lotus cars for a special track day at Sepang International Circuit tomorrow morning. For most of us, except car no.6, who popped the cherry last weekend with the K-cars at the Japan K4 Grand Prix, this would be THE inaugural track day. And for the hardcore few like me, I am pissing my pants in excitement. Tengku Djan, successful racecar driver and Head of Race Rally Research (R3) will be there to give us tips and tutorials on proper control of the SR3 as well as track familiarisation. Djan, evidently, was trained by Lotus, and he personally tuned the suspension of the ‘one of the best handling hot hatches in the market’ (as quoted by Autocar – Feb 05 issue).

Luke, owner of Satria R3 no.13, who is disappointed for not being to make it for the event posted some track day tips and tricks.

Track Day Tips
If you ever take you road car on the track, remember these golden rules: Enjoy yourself and drive your car home afterwards!!!

Pre-Event checks
a) Make sure the car is in a well maintained condition
b) Check ALL fluid levels
c) Replace the brake fluid if not changed at service specified interval
d) Check the condition/pressure of all your tyres, Make a note of the pressures
e) Check your brake pads for condition/thickness, preferably put new fast road/comp pads such as Pagid Blue pads in, front and rear*
f) Remove any accessory’s not securely fitted
g) Check the speed rating of your tyres, Make a note of this and never exceed it on track
h) Remove any floor mats from the drivers footwell
I) Remove the spare tyre if you have secure storage
j) Take some basic tools with you, enough to change brake pads at least
k) Take at least one axle stand for when you change the pads
l) Take some rags/swarfega for cleaning your hands etc
m) Fill up with SUL(super unleaded) even on standard spec engine, you wont get more performance, just gives the engine more protection from destination. If you run on SUL normally put 1% octane booster in for safety.
n) Take a can of Red Bull, it gives you wings you know!

Spares etc to take
a) One set of brake pads at least, front and rear
b) One 5 litre can of oil
c) Some tape to cover your light lenses
d) A helmet
e) Some thin soled sports shoe’s, aids with brake feel

Pre-track checks
a) Recheck your tyre pressures, if one is down you may have a slow puncture which could blow when at high speed
b) Increase the tyre pressures by 4-6PSI higher than you run on the road**
c) Tape up your headlights
d) Ensure you understood the driver briefing, if you are not sure about any aspect, ask for clarification. Ensure you understood the passing rules in particular!
e) Drink your can of Red Bull and put on your helmet

First lap on every run
a) Never thrash the car on the first lap, speed up gradually bringing the oil/water temperatures to normal working parameters
b) Gently bring the brake temperatures up to temperature
c) use this lap to get familiar with your new, rather alien surroundings
d) Try and give yourself space front and rear, don’t be tempted to follow the car in front too closely as you will be concentrating on him/her and not learning the track
e) Get used to checking your mirror before and after each corner, you will be amazed how quickly some cars will catch you if you are a track novice.

Rest of laps
a) Bring up the speed gradually if you are a novice, you will learn more
b) Give it Death, remember your there for fun
c) If you experience brake fade/boiling don’t think it will go away before the next corner, slow down, it is very likely to be worse the next time
d) If you feel a power loss coming out of a tight bend back off, don’t keep it planted, you are probably getting the first sign’s of fuel surge, if you keep it planted you are risking detonation due to a weak mixture. return to the pits and refuel. This can happen with half a tank of fuel on board, don’t get fooled into thinking it can’t be happening already, it can.

Last lap in
a) Do a slow last lap in
Try to avoid using the brakes at all to give the disks/pads some chance to cool down
c) Don’t stop looking in your mirror, there might be some idiot still on max attack

Entry to pits/stopping
a) Enter the pits slowly, look out for kids/spectators, it is easy to not hear you coming
DO NOT SWITCH OFF YOUR ENGINE
c) Allow the engine to idle for at least 2 minutes
d) DO NOT PUT THE HANDBRAKE ON OR SIT WITH YOUR FOOT ON THE BRAKE PEDAL.
e) The above is to stop the pads from being destroyed by the heat sink effect from your red hot brake disks, stop on a level surface or arrange for someone to chock your wheel.
f) Let everything cool before you check the following

Post run checks
a) Check the brake pads for wear, you will be amazed how quickly they are used up
b) Check ALL fluid levels, You may never use oil on the road, you are almost guaranteed to do so on a track day run
c) Check your tyre pressures, if one has dropped you may be on the way to a blow out
d) Check the tyres for wear/cuts
e) Check you are still not wearing a silly cheesy grin

*The stock R3 Mintex M1144 racing pads are one of the best pads in the business! Change not needed!
**The R3 recommended tire pressure is 2.1bar and 1.9bar respectively, for both road and track use.

I am looking forward to the event with anticipation and zest. Can’t wait for a good test :) Now where is my Aerotech Afterburn Octane booster supply?

Mine’s Bigger Than Yours, bruv! 0

We had a mini gathering of sorts – the four Satria R3 owners at Revolution, a workshop located off Old Klang Road, on Saturday morning. I met Luke, owner of car No. 0013 at Jalan Gasing before we had breakfast near the workshop.

Luke pointed out another inconsistency with the Satria R3s. Noticing that the air-con hose in my engine bay is smaller than his, we proceeded to check this anomaly out. Sure enough, upon popping the hood of his black stallion and inspection, his air-con hose was indeed bigger in diameter. Does size matter? :D Guys can’t stop comparing and competing with each other can they? Not even for a second. It was weird. And funny. I remember quoting “macam paip lori wei!”. Maybe they ran out of stock?

The overweight hose just could not stop growing...

When Rizal and Harun, owners of cars No. 0006 and 0009 respectively, arrived, we inspected their cars as well. Weirdly enough, I had the smallest hose, with Luke’s having the fattest.

A finger for comparo with the obese hose

I got my steering realigned by Sam at today since it was slight misaligned to the left, then got Danny to get my Pivot Raizin Volt Stabiliser and grounding kit installed, in addition to a PiperCross cold-air intake pipe. I have been experiencing static whenever alighting from my car, when I touch the door to close it. And of course the fluctuation of RPM when you turn on the lights, or power window when the car idles. The fluctuation is quite normal, similar to my previous ride.

Shot of the installed Pivot kit. Seen beside it
is the PiperCross CAI.
Danny dismantling the stock CAI after
the installation of the Pivot kit.

After installation, I can seriously say that the kit works! Not only did it solve the static problems and current fluctuations, it also reduces the drag that is usually associated when turn on the air-con while car is in movement. The engine roughly loses 12% of power or needs to work 12% harder when the air-con is on, giving it the ‘drag’ or ‘lag’ if you want to call it that. Prozac and I tested my SR3 once we got the kit installed and it definitely made a difference.

Don’t know about the power increase, as usually associated with a grounding kit installation, but my primary goal was really to stabilise the current. It works as claimed.

Had a little bit of a problem getting the intake pipe to fit though. Unlike my Persona which had the intake pipe protrude through a drilled groove where the right spotlight should be, the GTI bumper had a metal piece which barricaded any access, where the tyre flare is located. We eventually decided to place it behind this grooved metal plate as the pipe was clearly to short to fit the fog lamp hole.

I find the car slightly more responsive and more vocal. Not at open-pod levels, but definitely throaty. Nice.